Pattern-chart for drafting garments



9 Sheets-Sheet 1 l E.'J. LINOK, Pattern-Chart for Drafting Garments.

No. 224,832. Patented Fb, 24', 1 880.

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N. FEYERS, PHOTO-LITMOGRAPMER, WASmNGTON, D c

9 snets-sneet '2 I E. J. LINOK. Pattern-Chart for Drafting Garments.

No. 224,s32. Patented Feb. 24, 1880.

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N PETERS. PHOYO-LITHOGRAPH. WASHINGTON, Dv C.

9 Sheets-Sheet 3. E. J. LINOK.' Pattern-Chart for Drafting Garments;

No. 224,832. Patented'F'eb. 24, 1880.

N.FEI'ERS PHQTO-LITHOGRAPHER. WASHINGTON. D -C 9 Sheets-Shet4;

E. J. LINOK. Pattern-Chart fqr Drafting Garments.

No. 224,832. Patented Feb. 24,1880.

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9 Sheets-Sheet 5. E. J. LINOK. Pattern-.GhartI r Drafting Garments. No.224,832.

Patented Feb. 24, 1880.

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N4 PETERS, PHOTD-LHHOGRAPRER, WASHINGTON. D. 0,

9 Sheets-Sheet 6.

E. J. LINOK. Pattern-Chart for Drafting Garments.

No. 224,832. Patented Feb. 24, I880.

Witnesses,

Miami.

NPEYERS, FHOTO-UTNOGRAPN E R. WASHINGTONJDICI 9' Sheets-Sheet 7. E. J.LINOKM Pattern-Chart for Drafting Garments.

No. 224 832. Patented Feb. 24,1880.

Witnesses, Jan

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9 Sheets-Shet s.

E. J. LI-NGK. Patterniflhart for Drafting Garments.

No. 224.832. Patented Fb. 24, 1880 NPETERQ PHOTO UTHDGRfiPHER.WASHINGTON, 0. C4

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E. J. LING/ K. v Pattern-Gha'rt for Drafting Garments. No. 224,832.

Patented Feb. 24, I880.

ll. l 1 I I l I I l I II i l l l r l l l I l l I l I l ll WttoragyQ N.PEYERS, PHOTO-LITHOGRAPHER, WASHINGTON. D. C,

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFIGE.

EMIL J. LINGK, OF BALTIMORE, MARYLAND.

PATTERN-CHART FOR DRAFTING GARMENTS.

SPECIFICATION ,forming part of Letters Patent No. 224,832, datedFebruary 24, 1880.

Application filed October 14, 1879.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it knownthat I, EMIL J. LINOK, of Baltimore city, State of Maryland,haveinvented certain new and useful Improvements in Pattern-Charts forCutting Garments; and I hereby declare the same to be fully, clearly,and exactly described as follows:

I have devised a chart provided with oerta-in arbitrary points ofmeasurement, wheretour a to l (m being in common) for a bustmeasure offortysix inches, which are practically the extreme limits. The lines offigures connecting salient and corresponding points are from 30 to 46,inclusive, and are formed in perforations, as usual. It will be seenthat the chart has an arbitrary point, x, and an arbitrary scale, 0,Whose location can only be definitely expressed by stating that theoriginal drawings, Figs. 1 and 2, are drawn to scale one-thirdwfullsize, on the assumption that the scale below (Fig. 1) truly representsinches.

Fig. 2, B is the chart of the back, having contours t a c w 9:,tw, (qbeing in common,) and being perforated on the salient lines from 30 to46, as before described.

is the chart of the side, having contours q r q r, (m and n beingincommon.) Similar perforations,from to 46, connect the two contours.Arbitrary scales p and y and point 00 so are shown, whose functions willbe hereinafter set forth. I

For a dress, &c., five measures are taken: First, length of waist,measured down the middle of the back; second, breast-measure; third,waist-measure; fourth,length of sleeve; fifth, length of skirt in front.

In drafting a properly-proportioned dressbody the breast-measure istaken-say thirtysix inches-and the pattern-ehart being laid upon a pieceof paper, a pencil-mark is made in the 36-l1ole all around. The pointsso marked being connected by 1ines,the whole is proportions.

cut out, and constitutes a pattern of proper Since, however, everyperson is not symmetrically proportioned, the measure ments must ofcourse be modified accordingly, as will be readily understood.

I will now proceed to describe the use of the chart in cutting variousarticles of apparel seriatt'm Fig. 3 represents the six goredwalkingdress. Here A, B, and (l are the parts of the dress-body pattern,which are laid together as shown. I mark on a strip of paper 1} w 0 (0being the hole of the arbitrary scale 0, indicated by thebreast-measure;) also distances 0 1 and 0 x .r; lay them out as a scale,marking 23 midway between 1 and 2, also 4-5 and 67 from the marks onchart.

First, the front gore. I make 8-9 the de sired front length of skirt.Lay out 101l=0 -2, 1012==}0f67, and10S=-4-5. Lay out ll13 at rightangles to 1112. Make 11 -13=89+- difference between front length andback length of skirt.

Second, the front-side gore. I make 14 15:2-3, 1417=67, 1416=, of 4-5.

Make 1518=16-17+% difference between front and back length of skirt, and16-17 l113.

Third, therear-side gore. I make 20 3=15 18, 1922 3l; 19 1=4-5, 19 0=%of 4-5. Lay out 22-"-24 at right angles to 21 22 and make it =151S+%difference between front and back length of skirt.

Fourth, the back gore. I make 25-26=1- x w. Lay out 25-.fl' and 26- 8 atright angles to 25- 6, making 25-27=2224 and 26 28 of the desired rearlength of skirt. Now sweep out the cutting-lines in a gentle curveoutside the straight dotted lines on side seams, as shown, curving thegores properly at the bottom. The fullness of skirt is to be gathered orplaited, as desired.

Fig. 4 represents a pattern of a dress-body, taken from the chart, ofone-fifth natural size,

. for a breast-measure of thirty-seven inches on the scale, Fig. 1.

Fig. 5, the gored dress:

First. Lay down the back B, and produce 30-31 to 33, a 00-36 to 34, anda0 x-37 to 35. It being preferred to give half the spring of therear-side gore to the middle seam, we produce 29-31 to 32. Thedifference between the lengths of side seams is distributed as abovedescribed.

Second, the side gore. Lay down the chart, as shown; make 38-39:gof37-31; produce p-40 to 42, making 4041=37-34, and 38- 43 required lengthof front 1} difference between front and back lengths. Produce p- 39 tomeet 38-43, as shown.

Third, the front gore. Make 44-45= of 37-31, produce 0-44, making44-48:.38- 43, and 46-49- the desired front length of skirt. A lap ofthree-fourths of an inch in front is allowed in the above. If the dressis to be closed in the back, the lap is transferred.

Fig. 6, the loose sack, (mantlez) First, the back. Make 49 5o=gof .51-52, produce 54-52 to 60,19-61 to 57, making the lines of the desiredlength. For amantle, 55-52 is produced to 59, andp-62 to 58. The clothis cut on the heavy lines.

Second, the front. Make 64-63=% of 54- 53, produce 0-63, as may bedesired forlength. For a mantle, 0-66 is produced as shown,

Fig. 7, the cape. Lay the back, front, and side patterns as shown;divide p-oin center; connect with 69, which is midway between 67 and 68and from 71, which is g, of 70-69 from 70. Curve the lines forshoulder-seam, as shown.

Fig. 8, the basque:

First, the back. Make 72-73 the desired length, and draw 0000-75 throughmiddle of 77-78 and 76-74through 77.

Second, the side. Make 79-81 and 80- 82 :4 of 77-78, and through 79 and80 draw 83 p and 84 p of the desired length, the latter being of coursethe same as the side of the back.

Third, the front. Here it is only necessary to draw 0-86 through 85 togive proper spring, the length being determined by that of the side 82of the side body.

Fig. 9, the paletot:

First, the back. The short broken lines 2 2 represent the outline of thechart. I proceed as in the case of Fig. 8, allowing, however, the lap onshoulder and side seam shown. Also in, second, the side.

Third, the front. The line 0-89 is produced through 89, 89-90: 87-91.Butone dart is made.

Fig. 10, the waterproof cloak. Proceed as in the case of cape. Thecurves 91 92 are described, 94 and 93 being rounded to meet, as shown at95. The broken lines show the contour of a water-proof mantle somewhatwider than the cloak, and suitable to be worn over ball-dresses, 850.

Fig. 11, the drawers:

First, the loose drawers. Make 97 -98: 0 5r, 98-99:. of 0 .90, 99-101=20 .00, which will be of a length to reach to about the middle of thecalf. Lay out 97-103 and 99-104: 2 0 00, making 108-107, 108-103,104-109:

105-106, and 104-l00:2(106-106,) also 103-110:- of o 00. Connect thepoints, as shown, and cut for front and back.

Second, for the trousers, (tight drawers,) proceed for outside as inprevious case. Make 112-113 and 111-114:0-96, and 115-116 :0 00-,'l14-117:%EF,117-118:105106, 118-119=105-106. Connect by curves, asshown, determining the upper corners as in previous case.

Fig. 12, the chemise:

First, the front. Lay down chart, and mark out lines in the proportionsshown, producing 0-125, through for the spring of skirt.

Second, the back. Make 126-127=(121- 122,) and through 126 draw a linefromp for spring of skirt. Cutin the proportions shown.

1 would here remark that in the foregoing description I have beenparticular to give such full directions as to, in a measure, show thetheory as well as the practice of my mode of cutting garments, perhapsto the extent of being unnecessarily proliX, in view of the fact thatthe drawings correctly give proportions, and it would have been onlynecessary, for all practical purposes, to instruct the reader to simplyfollow the proportions given.

It will be observed that the salient features of the chart consist inthe arbitrary points 00, w 00, and the proper holes of the arbitraryscales 019 3 together with the middle point and lower corners of thechart of the back.

Of course, in the case of outer garments, such.

as basques, paletots, 850., suitable allowance must be made in view ofthe facts that they are to be worn over all and are of heavy material.

I have considered it unnecessary to give any patterns for sleeves, as inthat respect fashions and tastes are so varied.

What I claim is- I I 1. The pattern-chart herein described, consistingof a dress-body pattern provided with the arbitrary scales 0 p y and thearbitrary points x, a; 00, whereby all manner of garments for femalewear may be drafted,-as set forth.

2. The front-bod y chart A, having the point x and scale 0, and adaptedfor use in connection with the side-body and back-body charts 0 and B,as set forth.

3. The side-body chart 0, having the arbitrary scale 19, and adapted foruse in connec-.

tion with the front-body and back-body charts A and B, as set forth.

4. The back-body chart B, having point 00 00 and scale 3 and adapted foruse in connection with the front-body and side-body charts A and G, asset forth.

Witness my hand this 11th day of October, 1879.

EMIL J. LINOK.

Witnesses R. D. WILLIAMS, J OHN O. GITTINGER.

